So you've discovered climbing. Here's some advice to help you buy that first pair of rock climbing shoes:
1) Go to a shop that has the following, (A) a wide selection of climbing shoes, (B) a climbing wall of some sort to try the shoes on and, (C) informed staffed. If part (C) is really good, you can probably ignore the rest of this post. The odds of getting all 3 is far greater if you visit a climbing shop or climbing gyms or retailers such as MEC and La Cordée.
2) Get the fit right. Ignore what you’ve been told about climbing shoes needing to be sized smaller than your regular shoes. There is no consistency across the climbing shoe world. Some companies (Five Ten, Mad Rock, Evolv) try to label their shoes to size the same as your street shoes. So if you are a size 9 in street shoes, then chances are you’ll be size 8.5 to 9.5 in their climbing shoes. Other companies (La Sportiva, Scarpa) pretty much require a mandatory downsize of one full size, often more. Sizing can also vary across models within the same company. The only way to really know is try on the shoes. Pay no attention if a shoe has been labeled a women’s or men’s shoe, all it really means is that the women’s version is narrower than the men’s version.
So what will constitute a good fit for a first shoe?
Make sure there is no dead space between your toes and the inside of the shoe. You want your toes to be as close to the rock/holds as possible. Any dead space and you start losing some of the benefits of wearing climbing shoes.
Make sure your toes are flat or comfortably curved. Comfort is a very subjective thing though. If you are a former ballerina, then the concept of uncomfortable climbing shoes is laughable.
Check that the heel is snug. This is often the most difficult thing to get perfect. As long as your heel isn’t swimming around in the heel cup or your Achilles tendon hurts from being pinched by the back of the shoe, it will be ok.
3) Try them on the wall. What might be comfortable to put on and stand around in might be very uncomfortable to climb in. The reverse could also be true. Climbing with the shoes is really the only way to tell the fit of the shoes. Your feet shouldn’t feel like they are moving around inside that shoe, if that is the case, try a half size down. If the shoe is too painful when you use a small foothold, maybe try a half size up. Rinse and repeat until you find a shoe that fits.
4) Factor in the shoes stretching out/breaking in. All shoes will break in/stretch out to a point. Full leather shoes will generally stretch more than synthetic leather. If you find yourself in-between sizes, and both feel like they will work, go with the smaller size. If the smaller size feels too uncomfortable/painful and you plan to climb with them until they break in --- I’d advice that you go with the larger size. Comfortable shoes mean you will climb more and improve faster. Painful shoes = less climbing = less fun and the possibility of the shoe not stretching out as much as you’d hope.
Additional advice for that first purchase If you only found one model of shoes that fits your feet, then buy that one. If you found several pairs that might work, here are further tips to help with the decision:
Save the cash and buy the cheapest pair that fits your feet. Your footwork as a beginning climber will be sloppy and you will thrash your first pair of shoes. There are several models that are in the $100 price range, your wallet will thank you.
Laces or Velcro/Slippers? Velcro and Slippers are more convenient. Laces allow you a more precise fit. I always advise people to buy lace-ups over velcro for their first pair of shoes, if the option is there. Your understanding of what the “right fit” is will change as you progress as a climber. Laces will give you more fitting options in the future. I still regularly climb in my first pair of shoes, purchased over 12 years ago (on resole* #5 I believe)
*Climbing shoes can be restored back to new condition for a fraction of what a new pair would cost.
Stiff or Soft? If you plan on climbing regularly (2-3 times a week), opt for the softer shoe. Soft shoes will allow you to develop foot strength and technique faster. If climbing will be an occasional activity (a couple of times a month), get stiffer shoes. They are more comfortable to wear and will allow you to use small holds much easier. Test the stiffness of the shoes by pressing down on the sole with both thumbs or trying to fold the front of the shoe.
If one foot is slightly larger than the other foot, size your climbing shoes to your larger foot. You don’t want unnecessary pain for your first pair. However, if there is a over a half-size difference between your feet, you may want to consider contacting the shoe companies directly. Retailer stores are unlikely to offer significant discounts because you need a size 8 left shoe and a size 9 right shoe. Evolv will sell split sized shoes for an extra $30 USD, Butora also offers the same for $25 USD, and Mad Rock Canada will special order it for you at no extra cost!