Edelrid GigaJul

121 grams. Designed for ropes 7.1 to 10mm!

GigaJul on the Left, MegaJul on the right

For the past few years, Edelrid’s product line of belay devices has entirely been of the assisted or semi-automatic variety. In the future we may see climbing companies offer more options for these types of devices, gradually moving away from the traditional tube devices.

Edelrid’s newest addition to the product line is the GigaJul. The GigaJul is a belay device that allows the user to switch from assisted to “manual” mode. In assisted mode, the device locks up when belaying/rappelling, unless the user overrides the device. In “manual” mode, the device behaves like a standard ATC/tube device. Switching between modes is done by sliding a plate on the device and orienting the GigaJul so that the plate is closest to you.

Two pictures below show the device in Assisted mode. Notice the letter "A" positioned towards the belayer.

Two pictures below show the device in Manual mode. Notice the letter "M" positioned towards the belayer.

Review

Testing was done over two days of climbing using a Petzl Attache carabiner and the Edelrid Tommy Caldwell 9.6mm rope

Top Rope Belay

In both manual and assisted brake mode the device performed as expected. There was nothing noticeably better or worse about using this device compared to say a Black Diamond ATC or a Mammut Smart.

Lowering

In manual mode, again, it handled very much like any other tube device. In assisted mode, a thumb catch/hook on the wire allows the belayer to tilt up the GigaJul and lower the climber. As with any other assisted device, expect a small learning curve to determine where that “sweet spot” is for lowering. With a bit of practice, it easily becomes second nature for most climbers.

To override the device, tilt the device up using the thumb loop

There were reports of the wire breaking on the MegaJul and MicroJul that rendered them nearly useless. It seems Edelrid has fixed this by attaching one end of the wire to a pivot point, making it extremely unlikely to break under normal use.

Lead Belay

The assisted mode for lead belaying is different from using an ATC. In order to pay out slack quickly, the belayer needs to override the device temporarily by tilting up the gigajul (similar to lowering). Anyone switching from an ATC can expect a short learning curve*. Belayers already familiar with devices such as the Mammut Smart or Black Diamond Pilot should find it quite natural.

*I would argue that learning to use a GigaJul (or similar) is far more intuitive than learning to use a Petzl Grigri.

Manual mode lead belaying works exactly as using an ATC. However, we found the device slightly 'grabbier' than other devices.

Rappel

Rappel set up with a carabiner used as a lever

The most common complaint about assisted devices is the learning curve/difficulty when it comes to rappelling. This is where Edelrid's ingenuity might matter most for potential users. Climbers can use it in assisted mode and rappel using the thumb loop. They can also use a carabiner to hook a notch on the device and give themselves a lever to control the rappel. We found this rappel method to be smoother than using the thumb loop. Finally, a climber can use the device in manual mode and descend as if using an ATC.

Guide Mode

Image on theThe device as a guide plate. Notice the slider is set up in manual mode.

A common complaint about the MegaJul was how much friction there is when used as a guide plate to bring up a second. Edelrid has addressed this by designing the GigaJul to be a much slicker device. The GigaJul is a dramatic improvement on the MegaJul as a guide plate. Although, not as smooth a belay as a Mammut Alpine Smart, lowering a short distance is easier to initiate with the Edelrid GigaJul.

Verdict (for now)

Based on a few days of use, it appears that Edelrid has released a very good product. All parts of the device that come into heavy contact with the rope is made of stainless steel and should outlast most other devices on the market. On a multi-pitch climb, a user may need to regularly switch modes throughout the day and some will be put off by this. If you already own another assisted belay device but dislike rappelling with it, the GigaJul is something to consider. If you are shopping for your first assisted device, or first device for that matter, the GigaJul is currently the most versatile product on the market.

Further things to be tested:

Belaying with double or twin ropes.

Different rope diameters, especially thick and fuzzy gym ropes.

Different belay carabiners.

Lead belaying directly off anchors.

The Edelrid GigaJul is currently available in Canada at MEC and Vertical Addiction for $59.95 CND