After almost a decade on the market, Totem cams have finally started to get the well deserved attention and love from climbers. Totem is a small Basque Country cooperative and their ability to produce these devices will likely never keep up with the increasing demand. The availability of Totem Cams in Canada is limited to a handful of stores, Vertical Addiction, Climb On Squamish, and Verti Call. The relatively low production of Totems also means that most stores in North America have the cams on back order or are frequently sold out for the season.
When people begin to dabble into the world of traditional climbing, chances are they are using a borrowed rack composed of units from the more established brands/models (i.e. Black Diamond, DMM, Metolius, and Wild Country). Once they decide to purchase their own rack, they are likely to look for a set they are already familiar with. The low availability of these cams combined with new trad climbers buying what is familiar means Totems will probably remain uncommon for a while longer. However, I expect that the number of climbers racking Totems will grow steadily as more people become familiar with their advantages. In the past two seasons, I have seen more Totem cams in use than all the previous years combined.
Brief history
Totem cams may seem new to some but they have been in development since 2001. The pictures* below show the evolution of the Totem cam.
*originally on Andy Kirkpatrick’s review of Totems, however the images are no longer available on his site
The last image above shows the first version that was commercially available. In January 2011, Totem released the following statement:
"It has been brought to our attention regarding the Totem Cams sold prior to 31 December 2010 that the color anodizing of the cams gives them a surface hardness that may affect their holding power in certain areas of polished limestone and when the cams still retain their layer of anodizing on the area in contact with the rock."
Totem recalled the cams and from that point on Totem cams no longer had anodized lobes.
In 2016 Totem added two more sizes with the addition of the Black and Orange, bringing a full set of Totems up to seven sizes.
The patent for Totem is due to expire at the end of 2022, so we may well see Totem clones in the near future.
Specs
Price: CA$109.95 - CA$129.99
Totem cams use 7075 aluminum, the same as Black Diamond uses on the C4 and X4 cams. In contrast, DMM uses the softer 6082 grade of aluminum for their Dragon and Dragonfly cams. Softer lobes will deform easier, so in some situations the holding power of DMM units will be greater at the expense of durability.
Totem cams are designed with a camming angle of 12.5°-13°.
See below for camming angles from other manufacturers:
Black Diamond C4/X4 - 14.5°
DMM - 13.75°
Metolius - 13.25°
Fixe - 16°
Wild Country Friend - 13.75°
Wild Country Zero (available 2020) - 17.6°
Follow this link, Climbing Cam Geometry, for a detailed explanation on camming angles.
Holding power and range have a direct relationship to camming angle. Lower camming angle = higher holding power but lower range. Higher camming angle = higher range but lower holding power. In theory, Totems should have the smallest range, but this is not the case at all. The shape of the lobes factor into the equation and Totem has designed the lobes to maximize the range of their units.
Range
Despite the small camming angle, the Totem cams have a usable range that is comparable to the double-axled Black Diamond C4s. What truly sets the Totem apart from other cams would be the independently loaded lobes. Most camming devices are built on a single stem. When holding a fall, the load goes to the stem and is then distributed to the 4 lobes. Totem cams on the other hand are built with two flexible stems and in the event of a fall the load goes to the stems directly in line with each pair of lobes.
When cams are placed in a flaring crack, the lobes are not retracted evenly and a single stem will put the load on all lobes at the same time. If the crack is too flaring, then the cam placement would be useless or marginal at best. With Totem cams the two stems will load the two pairs of lobes more independently, this makes them suitable in flaring and offset cracks. Some climbers will forego racking offset cams and simply double up with Totems.
Flexibility
Totems are very flexible (more than the C4/Dragon/Friend, but not as flexible as X4s), making them good pieces for horizontal placements. The flexibility also means they are less likely to walk and they resist being torqued horribly out of position when climbing past the piece. Our climbing partners have noted how easy they are to clean and we have yet to manage getting a piece desperately stuck despite a few, overcammed, panic placements.*
*this is probably due to a combination of the lobe shape and flexible stems
One drawback of the flexibility is that the larger units (red and orange) are a bit floppy and a can be more difficult to handle than rigid cams.
Headwidth
Totems have very narrow heads that become more apparent in the larger sizes.
The lobes on Metolius Master Cams are a shorter and for some shallow placements the Master Cams could be better. However, in really shallow placements, three lobe placements are an option where other cams would simply not work. Additionally, scary two lobe placements (rated as aid gear) could be a better alternative to placing nothing in some situations.
Watch a video here from Totem on two and three lobe placements.
Drawbacks
Larger sizes (3" or larger) not available.
Flexibility of the largest sizes (Red and Orange)makes them floppy and more awkward to handle/place.
Slightly heavier, racks a bit bulkier and longer on the harness than other cams.
Durability/Servicing - Totems have a more complicated design and there are more things to damage/break. Successful field repair of wires would be unlikely and repair(s) would have to be mailed back to Totem.
Totems do not have cam stops so they cannot be placed passively, and the lobes will umbrella/invert if they are open* when it catches a fall.
*This can happen if a unit walks deeper in an inwardly flaring crack or if a flake flexes/expands with a tipped out cam.
Advantages
By far the easiest cam to clean when seconding. The lobe geometry seems to allow even over-cammed units to come out with relative ease.
Flexibility makes Totems unlikely to walk out of position.
The most important advantage Totem cams offer is that they will work where other cams would be marginal or would not work at all. The small head width and stem design give Totem cams more placement possibilities than any other camming devices on the market. Having Totems could be the difference between climbing above bomber or marginal gear when on routes with tricky/difficult protection.
When climbing near your limit, having these cams might make it easier to commit to the moves. You will have confidence in the gear below you and trust that you will find a placement above--hopefully.
Summary
Totem cams are worth considering for climbers looking for their first rack or considering doubling up on some pieces. Any drawbacks is exceeded by the advantages they offer. They excel in funky placements (pockets, flares, offset)so unless you climb mostly parallel cracks then the advantages will be obvious and will be well worth the extra cost. We would go as far as saying replacing an existing rack with Totems is a decision most climber would be unlikely to regret.
For thoughts on aid climbing with Totems: Totem Cams the Aid Review
For the oldest (first?)English review we've found: Pull Harder - Totem Cam Review