Shaka Bluffs Provincial Park
Shaka is the premiere sport climbing destination of Western Canada. However, about one-third of the routes are traditionally protected lines on excellent rock that should not be overlooked. It is located in Penticton, British Columbia, in the Okanagan Valley. The semi-arid, desert climate of the region makes Skaha a popular venue for Spring and Fall climbing.
The Skaha Bluffs has over 1000 pitches of climbing spread out over 60+ crags, and new routes continue to be opened every season. The characteristics of the climbs can vary greatly from one sector to another. As a result, Skaha packs a wide variety of styles in a relatively small area. There are steep routes that will require you to pull powerful moves, you’ll dance up delicate face climbs, crimp down hard on small edges, or balance up insecure sloping hands with smeary feet. Sign posted trails make for straightforward approaches, most of the time, that can range from 10 to 75 minutes depending on which sector you are heading to.
Skaha can be very busy on long weekends but the majority of the crowd will be clipping bolts. Having trad gear will give you additional options to climb around the crowds. The climbing is on gneiss, so the rock is solid, and featured enough that you don’t need a extensive rack for many of the trad routes.
Be aware that Skaha is a suntrap and your climbing plans may well be dictated by the temperatures. Pleasant morning crags can become unbearably hot in the afternoon, while shaded crags become the perfect mid-day escapes.
It is not uncommon to encounter bears or snakes while in the park. Carry bear spray and leave the snakes alone and you’ll be fine.
If you get a rainy day but still want to climb, it is worthwhile to check the forecast in Kelowna. Although only 62km away from each other, the two locations will often have different conditions. Kelowna has trad, sport climbing, and bouldering. The Boulderfields, with hundreds of established problems and potential for even more, is a worthwhile destination for boulderers.
Access
The park is open from March 1 until November 15. Climbing is possible for most of this time, depending on your cold/heat tolerance, with Spring and Autumn being the peak times.
There are no entrance or parking fees for the provincial park. Theft of valuables from vehicles became such a problem that the local community formed the Shaka Bluffs Park Watch Society. There were no reports of thefts in 2016 and only one incident in 2017. Consider donating to them and definitely drop by and say “Hello” and “Thank You” to the person posted at the parking lot who will essentially be watching your stuff.
Camping
There is no shortage of camping options in Penticton and all are just a short drive away from the climbing. However, Penticton is a very popular tourist destination so booking ahead, especially on long weekends, would be strongly recommended.
The most popular amongst climbers would be Banbury Green RV Park. It has great views across Skaha Lake. Rates are $30-$45/tent site depending on the time of year, maximum of 4 adults per site. Early in the season, Banbury offers a lower fee of $10/person/night. If you want somewhere a bit quieter, consider driving up the hill to Lost Moose Campground (open May 1- Sept 30). Lost Moose has large sites that can accommodate larger groups ($30-$40/night for groups up to 12)
Nearby Amenities
Penticton is a city of 40,000+, so you can find most things you might need. The Real Canadian Superstore is open late and will be your cheapest option for groceries.
For your camping and climbing gear needs, head to True Outdoors.
Attractions
Penticton’s location gives it waterfronts to both Skaha Lake and Okanagan Lake. Go for a dip after a day of climbing, but don’t get eaten by the Ogopogo, the local sea monster.
Since you are in the Okanagan Valley, make sure to indulge in the seasonal fruits. Numerous fruit stands line the road as you drive into Penticton. There is also the Farmer’s Market held every Saturday from early May to early October. For the best prices you could go direct to the farms and pick your own fruits. Cherries, pears, apples, plums, apricots, and peaches are all grown locally.
The area is renowned for its wine production, so why not treat yourself to a winery tour during your trip to Skaha. The 120+ wineries in and around Penticton is a destination for many. You won’t need to go far for a selection of wines to sample. Penticton and the nearby town of Naramata is home to 41 licensed wineries you can visit. Tasting fees are often free but some wineries will charge a fee (usually $5) that will be credited towards any purchases. Our personal favourites would be Mocojo Wines, Tightrope Winery, and Misconduct Wine Company. Stop by one or two creameries and sample local cheeses to break up your winery tour.
Guidebook
Howies Richardson’s Skaha Rockclimbs: A User’s Manual is the guidebook for the area. For purchasing options follow the link: http://www.highcol.ca/
New routes information can be found here: http://skaha.org/route-updates/