If you are planning your first trip to Indian Creek, the best advice we can offer is to be prepared for the realities/challenges of the climbing there.
Indian Creek is an amazing place to learn how to crack climb. Be ready for hard days that will leave you bruised, battered, and bleeding.
After a summer in Squamish we took our first trip to Indian Creek confident that we had some jamming skills. The splitter cracks on Wingate sandstone quickly showed us we were clearly mistaken.
If you’ve never had to repeatedly jam on a climb, then nothing will feel easy at first. The climbs are generally vertical so it is difficult to ease yourself in; you just get thrown into it. The first days will be hard and frustrating, but be assured that it will get better. Top rope a lot, you’ll learn something on every pitch.
Ignore grades for the most part. Grades are size dependent. Guidebook grades are based on the male “average” hand size, whatever that means. Climbs that feel pretty good to you may feel impossible for those with smaller hands. Meanwhile your friends with small hands may cruise up lines that will be desperate for you. With that in mind, figure out what size crack is your happy place and seek those climbs out. Lead your happy size(s) and top rope to refine your technique on other sizes. It’s the quickest way to learn the technique.
Jamming will be hard on your hands and any other body part you decide to stick in the cracks. Bring lots of tape and learn to make gloves or buy crack climbing gloves.
Recommended racks in the guidebook are for those who are confident and willing to make a few moves above gear. Rack up what the guidebook tells you to bring, then rack some more. I doubt you’ll regret that decision. Due to the extensive gear requirements of certain climbs (the suggested rack for classics such as Incredible Hand Crack includes six #2 Camalots, Pente needs seven #1's, and Generic Crack needs ten #2's!) Indian Creek climbing is very conducive to friendly interactions. So don’t worry, that guy you’ll meet at the campsite/crag, he’s probably not hitting on you, he’s just interested in your rack.
To get the most out of your Indian Creek experience make sure to give every size a try! Who knows, you may develop a passion for off-widths or squeeze chimneys.
Access
The best times to go would be Spring (early-March to mid-May) or Fall (mid-Sept to mid-Nov). There are currently no access fees to pay for Indian Creek.
Indian Creek is about 90km SW of Moab and about 50 km NW of Monticello. Once you turn off the US 191, the road into Indian Creek (UT-211) can be narrow and winding in places; mule deer and cows are not uncommon. Take care.
Watch your speed if you want to avoid a ticket, the highways seem to be heavily patrolled. Camping
There are several Bureau of Land Management (BLM) maintained sites available. See the link below for a map: https://www.blm.gov/sites/blm.gov/files/uploads/recreation_utah_Indian%20Creek%20Camping%20Map.pdf
Self-registration walk-in sites are available for $5-$10/night. Group sites can be booked in advance for $25 plus $2-$3/person. Be aware that there is a maximum stay of 14 consecutive nights on BLM land.
The only luxuries you’ll have at camp will be picnic tables and open air pit toilets. There are no showers, water, phone service, or internet access in the campsites. Plan accordingly for your stay.
If campgrounds are full, there are several established sites beside the road around Hamburger Rock Campground that can do for a night or two.
Nearby Amenities The nearest amenities of any sort would be the Needles Outpost and Campground, a 10-20 minute drive away depending on where you are camped. They have a general store, showers, and a gas station if you need to refuel without having to drive out of Indian Creek. Monticello is the closest town. There are several places to eat, a small grocery store (Blue Mountain Foods), a dollar store, and a gasoline station. If you are looking for more creature comforts then you’ll need to make the drive to Moab.
Moab is well equipped to cater to the wants and needs of the outdoor enthusiast. For your climbing needs, visit Pagan Mountaineering or Gearheads Outdoor Store. We tend to give our business to Gearheads because they’ll let you fill up water containers free of charge. Plus, they have the best selection of Clif Bar flavours we’ve ever seen. If you enjoy a bit of a bargain hunt, drop by Moab Gear Trader for new and used outdoor goodies.
City Market will give you the best selection for groceries. Make sure to sign up for the free membership card which gives you discounts on groceries and fuel.
There’s no shortage of places to eat in Moab. For great value burgers, fries, and milkshakes, it’s hard to go wrong with Milt’s Stop & Eat. You could treat yourself to brunch and get your java fix at the quirky little establishment, Eklecticafe.
After several days in the dessert you may want to clean up. Much needed showers can be taken at the Moab Recreation and Aquatic Center for. For just $4 you’ll get access to the pool and showers. Pay $10 and you’ll have access to the entire facility.
Attractions
Indian Creek climbing will thrash you, so you will need rest days whether you want to take them or not. Rain means wet sandstone and you will need to stay off the rock for a day or two. Your food and water supply will also force you to run errands in order to restock. Don’t worry, there is no shortage of things to do and see in and around Indian Creek. Get in the vehicle and start driving.
Just over 2.5 hours away on the Utah-Arizona border is the Navajo Tribal Park, Monument Valley. The drive down is beautiful and is a destination in itself. You’ll pass by the Mexican Hat, a classic climb, stop and admire it or gear up and climb it (apparently it goes at 5.9, A0). The landscape of Monument Valley is spectacular and will look familiar if you are a fan of Western movies, Back to the Future, or Forrest Gump. Don’t get too excited though – no, you are not allowed to climb any of the formations. Entrance fee is $10/person or $20/vehicle for up to four people. Expect to spend a full day driving the scenic loop and taking in the stunning views.
Closer to Indian Creek is Arches National Park. Located 6km north of Moab, Arches is home to the world’s largest collection of natural sandstone arches. If your schedule allows, spend a couple of days exploring Arches National Park. A three-mile hike will take you to the iconic Delicate Arch. You could easily spend a full day wandering through the trails of the Devils Playground. In case you were wondering, yes, you can climb on the features but not on the arches. Pick up coloured chalk from the local shops and leave the white chalk at camp if you decide to climb in Arches.
Canyonlands National Park is a perfect excursion for those lazy rest days. You’ll see a lot from just driving and stopping at the fantastic viewpoints within the park. The Needles district of the park is a short drive (<20 minutes) away from Indian Creek. About 50km west of Moab is The Island in the Sky district of Canyonlands. Island in the Sky is a bit of a haul for a day trip from Indian Creek, but definitely pay a visit if you are already in Moab. The scenery in this district is amazing and will make it obvious why the park is named what it is.
Both Arches and Canyonlands have a $25/vehicle entrance fee that is valid for 7 days. Alternatively you could purchase the Southeast Utah Park Pass for $50, valid for one year, and gives one vehicle access to Arches N.P., Canyonlands N.P., and Natural Bridges National Monument. Finally there is the America the Beautiful Pass which gives you access to all National Parks and Conservation Areas for $80 and admits the pass holder along with 3 adults in one vehicle. Depending on your travel plans for the next 12 months, the $80 pass potentially offers the best value.
You could also follow the Colorado River east and drive on the UT-128. The first part of the drive will be in a beautiful gorge before it widens as you enter Castleton Valley and Professor Valley. Make sure to take the short detours to check out Castleton Tower and the interesting formations of the Fisher Towers. Break up your day with a stop at Castle Creek Winery, situated beside the Colorado River along the 128.
For more adventurous non-climbing days, consider the following:
Mountain Bike – Moab claims to be the home of the greatest mountain biking in the planet! Scenic trails suitable for a range of ability levels will give you plenty of options. Bring your own bike or rentals start from $55/day.
4 Wheeling – If you like off-roading then Moab has hundreds of miles of mining roads and 4x4 trails for you. For 20 years, Moab has been hosting an annual, 9-day, Jeep Safari that runs through Easter holidays.
For active rest days, it would be hard to go wrong with the following:
Looking Glass Rock (Regular Route, 5.4, 3 pitches) -- easy climbing with lots of exposure. The 50 meter free-hanging rappel and rope swinging shenanigans is well worth the effort. Watch out for snakes at the base of the climb.
Wilson Arch (Regular Route, 5.4, 3 pitches) – climb up the right side of the arch and then rappel down from its highest point, rope swing to your heart’s content, super fun!. You can easily combine Wilson Arch with Looking Glass Rock and still be back at Indian Creek before late-afternoon.
Elephant Butte – this butte is the highest point in Arches National Park and makes for a ridiculously fun canyoneering day. Most of it will be 3rd or 4th class terrain with occasional 5th class moves. A couple of rappels along the way add to the fun factor. Be careful with route finding, do your homework for this. Avoid it if there is a possibility of rain.
Guidebooks
David Bloom’s Indian Creek: A Climbing Guide covers over 500 routes.
If you are looking to climb around Moab, you can pick up Karl Kelley’s High on Moab.
Although not a guidebook for the area, Kent Pease’s The Crack Climber’s Technique Manual would be an invaluable resource for aspiring Indian Creek climbers.
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