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Writer's pictureOff Belay

In need of assistance?

Updated: Jan 21, 2018

In my completely biased opinion… all new climbers should become proficient with a tube device like the ATC, learn to use an assisted braking device, and then relegate the ATC to the gear closet or as a backup device. Learn to use an assisted braking device because 1) when used correctly it is much safer, 2) belaying with one will eventually be a lot easier than without one.


Every piece of documentation that comes with the climbing gear you buy tells you that climbing is dangerous… it’s true! So make the activity a bit safer with the extra security that comes with an assisted braking device. Whatever device you end up with, be certain that you learn how to use it properly: read the instructions, watch manufacturer videos, have someone who owns one to teach you, and most importantly practice using it in a controlled situation. Assisted devices are a bit safer, but improper use can still lead to serious or fatal injury.


Although I no longer use a regular tube device, I am a strong believer that every climber should first learn to belay on something like Black Diamond’s ATC. The rationale for me is simple: if a belayer knows how to use an ATC, mistakenly misusing a different device (in a moment of panic or lapse of concentration -- it’s not supposed to happen but it can) may still protect the leader from a ground fall. The same can’t be said for a potential mistake that happens because a belayer has only ever used a Grigri and ends up in a situation where only an ATC is available.


There is no shortage of available devices to choose from. Below are some of what is currently available on that market:


Petzl Grigri 2 and Grigri +

Black Diamond ATC Pilot

Edelrid Eddy and four versions of the Jul

Mammut carries three versions of the Smart

Trango Verso

Mad Rock Lifeguard

Camp Matik

Climbing Technology carries the Click Up and Alpine Click Up

Salewa Ergo



Visit your local shops and gyms and see if you can try a few before you buy. I’m sure they’d be happy to demo it for you for a potential sale. You could try asking that person in the gym or crag if they can show you how their device works and possibly borrow it for a climb. If you see me, I’d happily let you use whatever device I happen to be using that day.


You do need to be aware that there will be a learning curve involved to mastering any new piece of equipment. For most people, the lowering and rappelling is the biggest challenge, initially, when learning to use an assisted devices. These devices are also more expensive than you basic tube device, but you should get several years of use out it and the peace of mind that comes with the extra security doesn’t really have a dollar value. As your climbing develops, you may get into projecting hard sport climbs or climbing long multi-pitch routes, the added safety of assisted devices will become more obvious.



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