Totem Basic Cam Hybrids
Colorado Custom Hardware (CCH) Aliens were produced from 1986 to 2009, despite some manufacturing challenges, it developed a cult-like following among many trad climbers. The Aliens were often regarded as the gold standard when it came to micro cams. Black Diamond (X4), Metolius (Mastercam), and Wild Country (Zero) have all produced micro cams with narrow heads and flexible stems to fill the niche left by CCH. A Spanish company, Fixe, now holds the patent for the CCH Alien and have produced cams following the original design and their own updated version of the Alien (Alien “Revolution”). Totem, another Spanish company (based in the Basque Country), manufactures updated Alien “clones” (Totem Basics)as well as their own revolutionary camming device (Totem Cams).
Offset camming devices are very specialized pieces to add to a trad rack. Unless you get into aid climbing or freeing old aid routes, you could probably get through your entire climbing life without owning/placing an offset cam. However, for certain routes that have flaring cracks and difficult protection, having off-set pieces can make the difference between feeling safe/confident vs. being run-out/scared above marginal gear. When on-sighting trad routes at your limit, having offset options might make it easier to make committing moves into the unknown.
We recently started climbing with a set (3 units) of Kailas Nuco Hybrid cams. Kailas, a Chinese company, had an arrangement with Totem to sell rebranded cams. As far as we are aware, that partnership has come to an end and the remaining Kailas Nuco cams will be the last ones on the market. Totem continues to produce Totem Cams and Totem Basics. To keep things simple, we will refer to the cams being reviewed as Totem Basic Hybrids.
Initial Review
What we immediately noticed with these units is how flexible the stems are. Microcams such as Black Diamond X4s and Wild Country Zeros are flexible enough that you could fold one in half if you wanted, the Totem Basics are noticeably more flexible. You can easily fold one in half, and it feels like you could tie it into a knot if you tried. The flexibility of these units makes one confident that it would be highly unlikely (but not impossible) for these cams to walk if placed well. Knowing that the gear is unlikely to walk out of position on funky/flaring cracks offers peace of mind.
The Totem Basic Hybrids allow for placements that would be impossible or marginal at best with a “standard” rack. There are also placements options for the hybrid cams that offset nuts cannot cover (i.e. flared cracks that do not have constrictions). These cams have small heads which means you can place them in shallow and/or narrow cracks where other cams may not fit.
Offset cams in the Canadian market
Aside from these cams, the offset cams available in Canada are Black Diamond X4s and Fixe Aliens. The offset X4s are carried by MEC making them relatively easy to find, and only Climb On Squamish carries the Fixe Alien Hybrids. The Totem Basics are significantly lighter units than similar sized X4s and about 10 grams lighter than similar sized Alien Hybrids. Both Totem and Fixe cams are made with a softer metal (6061 aluminum) than Black Diamond cams (7075 aluminum). In theory, this means that the cam holds better on hard rock (i.e. granite) as the softer metal deforms and “bites” into the rock in the event of a fall. However, this also means that the cams might be less durable if you plan to take multiple whippers on these pieces.
We’ve started to rack these instead of doubling up on small cams in order to get some mileage on them. We plan to use these cams as much as we can this season and update this initial review at a later time.
The only place you can purchase Kailas-branded Totem Basic Cams in Canada is from Verti Call.
Use the discount code OFFBELAY at check out to receive a 10% discount on any Kailas products that Verti Call has in stock.
